THE ARTISTE

Gun and Bjorn came to see us on July 21st. They had driven down from central Sweden to watch the Neijmegen walks in Holland. Bjorn's son was in a Swedish band entertaining participants. Round about 40,000 people take part in these walks which go for something like 40kms. Having come so far they had to come the extra 10 hours to our place!

 

 

Not to go too far on day 1 we took them to a nearby bird and animal sanctuary.

 

 

There was an otter out in the lake fishing. You can see its head if you try hard enough!

 

Then an easy stroll around Guemene. This is a view from the library half way up the mainstreet looking down.

 

We took them into Gails shop while we checked out everything was in order. Gun stayed there once a few years ago.

 

 

Some of Gails watercolour paintings in the shop.

 

Directly across the road from Gail another Artist had set up shop. These are two working musical instruments. Can't imagine her getting away with this anywhere around Sydney - they'd walk!! Gail needn't worry too much about the competition as she is about to move on after only two months due to insufficient numbers of people passing.



This is the Artist Joelle Delain, originally from Belgium, taken a day later outside our place which Gun and Bjorn commissioned her to paint. She does terrific work and published a book in 2007 on details of Guemene. She had been to us before but we couldn't remember it and details of our house are in her book.

 

 

Afterwards down the bottom end of town we called in at the Tourist Bureau.

 

 

They have a model of the Chateau which used to dominate Guemene in 15th Century.

 

 

Close by near the Town Hall they have rebuilt the Queens bath which used to be in the Chateau.

 

The Southern Gate is still standing but most of the stonework from the original building has been pilfered over the years and can be found in many local cottages, ours included!

 

 At the bottom end of town you can see theGrand Moulin (Water powered Mill) in the centre of the picture. It's directly opposite our house.

 

Our courtyard. geranium flowers courtesy of Gail who is back in Australia.

 

 

Cathy and Gun among the Hydrangias (Hortensia according to the French) against the wall of the moulin.

 

 

Next day out to lunch at the Trois Marchands and a leisurely stroll back down the hill calling in at Shan's Antique shop. She is English originally but has been a permanent resident here since long before we bought our place. She is photographing a piece of pottery which is on consignment and estimates it is worth around $1000.

 

 

"Just put it down before you break it"!

 

 

 

 

I BEG YOUR PARDON

LOCRONAN 14 JULY 2013

 

 

Every year on the second Sunday of July a Festival is held at Locronan which is a medieval village in the far West of Finistere about 110km from here.

 

There is a parade which they call a Tromenie. Usually it is a Petite Tromenie but every six years they hold a Grande Tromenie. The difference being the distance the Parade walks 2km as opposed to 12km and the number of participents. This year was a Grande Tromenie. They estimated 3000 - 4000 persons had taken part, an all time record. It was a hot sunny day (30 deg plus) and many people are in dark garb often carrying heavy religious relics so by the end of the walk they knew they had taken part!

 

The whole event is a blend of tradition and religion. The parade follows the walk purportedly taken by Saint Ronan an Irish hermit who lived and preached in Locronan in the 5th century.

 

Although it is largely dominated by Catholics, this being a Catholic country, there is a large contingent of Druids. The Druids held sway long before religion came along and, if I understand correctly, paid homage to things rather than a god.

 

At the car park entrance where we paid 3 euros (amazing the lengths some people went to avoid paying!- some walked many kms) we were given a brochure. Both of us took for granted that the heavy orange line shown was the route the procession was to follow. Not so and as a result we spent 6 hours milling around with tourists and wondering what happens next! No one we asked seemed to know. Everyone who did preumably was out there following the walk!

People arriving during lunchtime. Nothing happens in France between 12 and 2pm as its lunchtime. Most of the people here seem kitted out for walking. They knew the routine!

Gathering at the church for the pre walk service.

People in Breton costumes making final adjustments.

The service is over and out they come from the church with all the banners and religious artifacts.

And set off down this street. We didn't realise that in order to get the full benefit of the occasion we were supposed to tag along behind. We weren't dressed appropriately anyway and thought we could take short cuts to get some photo ops along the way - wrong! - we headed off to where we expected to find them according to our map but they had dissapeared.

Here are the Druids doing their thing walking around the structure in the middle of the square. We gather it was a symbolic fertility ceremony. I had a better picture but unfortunately deleted it in an effort to make room for another as the new chip I had brought with me from Australia for the camera didn't work (My camera is obsolete already! Why is it the idiots who brought out chips for new cameras didn't make allowance for old ones - they are identical to look at?!)

A Breton lady left behind to mind one of the Saintly grottos, very kindly posed for these photos. She was adamant we photo her coiffe (Head gear) from side on. The coiffe is different in every village in Brittany and is a very important accessory.

 

The 15th Century Gothic Church surrounded by 16th and 17th century Renaissance buildings. The whole place looks like a film set and in fact has been used for 30 movies including "Tess of the d'Urbervilles"

 

 

Inside the Church.

 

 

A corner of the church square.

 

 

It's 8pm and the procession returns. These people have had a tough time so they have every right to be a bit jaded! 

 

As they pass through the Church doors they reach up and touch what we presume is the casket containing the remains of Saint Ronan. The casket is obviously heavy and the bearers keep interchanging.

A selection of reasons why people take part (from the newspaper):

To reinforce my Breton Identity.
Family Tradition
Pure Religious conviction.
For Locronan (The Town)

BASTILLE DAY - JULY 14TH

 

BASTILLE DAY NIGHT - 10PM 13 JULY 2013

 

 

I'm never quite sure what to make of this event. It suggests to me celebrating what was a violent time in French history (The storming of the Bastille, prison, in France during the French Revolution). I always think the French morale was severely damaged at that time and perhaps has never quite recovered. Anyway it is a happy family night out followed by a firework display, dancing and drinking, at the Sports field so we go out and join them.

 

The procession is led by the Mayor, a close neighbour of ours, and other dignitories, followed by a band. Children carry candle lanterns. We have watched a few of these events and the band this year were way superior to previous ones. They were dressed in comical orange costumes and played a selection of jazz type music we have never heard before.

 

 

They stop outside every Pub and Cafe and play a few tunes.

Another band playing Breton music starts up after the fireworks and many locals link pinkie fingers and dance. We have to go to lessons!